by Zhakiya

Trends Come Back:

A Look into the Revival of Black Fashion, Art, and Music

Looking through my parents' photo albums is like a window to the past. The clothes, hairstyles, and accessories give a small insight into what life was like back then. Fashion trends defined each era. My dad’s oversized jackets and t-shirts with my mum’s big gold hoops and short, blunt bob define a time of childless carefree fun. This nostalgia was not only limited to fashion trends, my childhood was abounding with drives in the car listening to music from a time when they had to “burn CDs”. Every song that would come on was tied to its distinctive memory of way back when. What fascinates me now is that my playlists are full of the songs my parents listened to in their youth and my wardrobe with the clothes they wore. It had me thinking, why do trends come back?

By definition, trends are temporary. They come and they go, only to come back around again in a few decades. Traditionally speaking the life span of a trend can be divided into 5 categories: Introduction, Rise, Peak, Decline and Obsolescence. It is fair to say that this still holds weight but with the introduction of social media, these life cycles are much more condensed and do not last as long as the trends of the past. In the contemporary world it is more likely for multiple styles of fashion or music to be popular at once, and paired with innovative merchandising technology the time it takes for trends to hit the market has reduced significantly. It usually goes something like this. A major luxury house will introduce a new trend on the runway of a Fashion Week and to ensure the rise of this trend companies will often solicit celebrities and influencers to popularise whatever they are trying to sell. At the peak of the trend popular retailers begin to sell a cheaper more accessible version of the trend allowing all consumer types to participate in the trend, at this point a trend’s longevity relies on how long it holds the consumers’ interest. As soon as consumers grow weary of a trend or feel it is too mainstream we start to see its decline which inevitably results in obsolescence. So, why do we see a resurgence of certain styles, sounds, and art forms in black fashion, art, and music?

Cyclical Nature of Fashion, Art, and Music

Before anything, we need to look at the cyclical nature of fashion, art, and music. Throughout history, we've seen styles and sounds from different eras make a comeback. Fashion, art, and music are all influenced by societal and cultural factors which reflect the zeitgeist of that era and often serve as a form of rebellion or expression. Certain styles and sounds may fall out of favour as new movements emerge, but they can also be revisited and freshly reimagined. Often, creatives take inspiration from previous art forms and create a modern take on the styles from the past. We hear this in samples and we see it in art and fashion. As we continue to evolve and progress in the future, we can expect patterns from the past to continue influencing and inspiring the trends of tomorrow.

A prevalent example of this would be the hi-top fade. Originating in the 80s, it is characterised by short hair on the sides of the head and a tall, flat top which is usually squared off. It gained popularity, particularly among black men and became a symbol of hip-hop culture. As the early 2000s approached the style soon fell out of fashion but made a return in the 2010s. The resurgence of the style in the 2010s was a form of personal expression with more customised and varied versions of the haircut, such as the curly top, frohawk, or braided top. Alternatively, its return can be attributed to the introduction of a new generation of celebrities with fresh fashion and artistic influences. It is natural for celebrity stylists to lean on retro styles to create innovative current looks, which leads me to my next point; nostalgia and cultural heritage.

Nostalgia and Cultural Heritage

A pertinent reason why trends come back is nostalgia. Revisiting certain styles and sounds reminds people of particular eras in their lives, offering a sense of comfort or familiarity. Regarding black fashion, art, and music, there's a strong connection to cultural heritage. Many black fashion, art, and music trends are rooted in African American, African, and Caribbean history and identity. For example, the Afro hairstyle, which was popularized in the 60s and 70s, was a symbol of black pride and resistance. It represented a rejection of Eurocentric beauty standards and an embrace of natural hair texture. Today, we see a resurgence of the Afro, along with other natural hairstyles that celebrate black beauty. The natural hair movement took the online black community by storm with creators teaching their audiences everything they needed to know about black hair care. After a time of perms and relaxers, black women didn’t know where to turn when it came to caring for their ‘transitioning’ hair. Black women rallied together on social media platforms to cultivate a space to ask questions without judgement and provide information that hadn’t been readily available. Youtubers and bloggers documented their journeys for women experiencing the same thing. The virality of the natural hair movement speaks to how the transition back to natural hair was much deeper than just haircare. It signified women turn their back on the narrative that black hair, particularly type 4, was undesirable and unprofessional. Black women changing the texture of their hair afforded them the social currency their natural hair didn’t, whether it be in the workplace, in the media or even in the dating scene. The contemporary natural hair movement carries cultural heritage, it exalts black beauty just as the movement did in the 60s and 70s. There are a plethora of examples of returning trends due to nostalgia and cultural heritage. Notably hip-hop music, which originated in the Bronx in the 70s, has had a lasting impact on black culture and beyond. It gave voice to marginalized communities and served as a form of protest against systemic injustice. Today, we see elements of hip-hop culture in mainstream fashion and music, from streetwear to rap lyrics and it has also led to the creation of many subgenres in other black communities around the world.

Revitalising Legacy and Artistic Vision

Lastly, people have a new appreciation of trends due to their legacy and artistic vision. Sometimes, a style or sound may have been ahead of its time, or underappreciated during its initial run and by looking back we can rediscover its value and impact.

This is especially important for black fashion, art, and music, which are often overlooked or undervalued in mainstream culture. By bringing back trends from past eras, we can restore their legacy and celebrate the contributions of black creatives.

Legacy and artistic vision play a crucial role in shaping the current and future trends in the Black community. Black creativity has always been a form of resistance and cultural expression that reflects the unique experiences, struggles, and triumphs of the community.

Many black creatives draw inspiration from the legacy of those that came before them, those who paved the way for future generations by breaking down barriers, creating new art forms, and forging new cultural identities. They see their work as a continuation of this rich and complex legacy and strive to push the boundaries of creativity and innovation.

Recognition of the black community’s rich cultural history and experiences give way to trends. Designers incorporate African prints, textures, and designs into their clothing lines as a way of celebrating their heritage and reclaiming their identity. Musicians frequently draw on the rhythms and melodies of African American, Caribbean and African music to create new and innovative sounds. Creatives are driven by artistic visions that reflect their unique perspectives and experiences. Often art is used to challenge social norms, confront racism and oppression, and celebrate the beauty and resilience of Black culture.

Black artistry is diverse and has the range to cover the full spectrum of humanity, from love to pain and everything in between. Black creatives continue to push boundaries and inspire future generations in every single art form and although trends come and go legacy does not. As we revisit and reinvent past trends, we can celebrate the enduring impact of black creativity, and look forward to the future of fashion, art, and music.